Wednesday, 1 May 2013

Farnham to Folkestone - Day Nine to Eighteen

Seventeen days and close to 400 km/250 miles after leaving Bristol, Jake and I arrived in the charmingly name seaside town of Folkstone. On our combine total of over one million steps (513, 105 each, or 256, 552.5 per leg) we have trundled through the South’s heart, absorbing a landscape steeped in wildlife, history, culture and, now, a thick blanket of my inner leg hair; short-shorts may bare the distinct advantage of exposing milk bottle knees to the sun, however, their abrasive ability, especially on the inner thigh, is comprehensive. I have chosen to abstain from attaching a photo to compliment, just imagine a plucked and slapped goose breast and you are as good as there.

We began the North Downs Way (NDW) close to Farnham train station, on day nine of our walk. After 20 meters of the national trail we were redirected back onto the path by a lady sanding at her upstairs window in the April sun. The NDW runs through what is predominantly a chalk influenced landscape, threading in and out of grassland and woodland. As we followed the well-marked trail east, the delayed spring began to finally show itself, with the flowering of the abundant bluebell forever in our observations. But this dainty woodland dweller was merely a sample of the bounty of wildlife that blesses the NDW; to name but a few, deer, foxes, butterflies, rabbits, a host of birds, several amphibious species, the usual pastoral gallimaufry and, less predictably, tortoises.

In all, the weather has been more than kind to us, with just a few rainy nights in the tent and the occasional heave of thunder. In fact, Jake and I both have Casio tan lines, which says it all.

Adversities so far have been relatively few and far between, but include a number of blisters (for me that is, Jake, unbelievably, has had none), sunburn (mostly Jake’s right shoulder), uncomfortably tangled hair in an uncomfortable-to-name place, a worryingly sore ankle (Jake’s), which thankfully disappeared, the consumption of too much pork pie, and, oh yes, Jake’s near death experience; a particularly steep climb was rewarded with an apple. Jake, as always, ate the whole thing, consequently choking on the unchewed stalk.
Our diet has been opportunistic, by which I mean awful. Noodles, bread, pastries, sweats, biscuits, chocolate and Golden Grahams have dominated, whilst the word ‘vegetable’ vanished, or should I say leeked (apologies) from our vocabularies.

Odd sights have been plentiful. Whilst in Biggin Hill we were passed by a fire engine which was plastered in images of Boris Johnson’s smiling face, accompanied by the resonating sound of ‘Ring of Fire’.  At Dunn Street campsite, we walked in on a medieval re-enactment  and in Larking we bought a banana the size of a Diplodocus femur, or a little smaller. We also passed through a number of amusingly named hamlets and villages - Clench, Crowdown Clump and Cuckoos Knobb.  

Our evenings so far would enthrall the most boisterous of party animals, even the golden lion tamarin. A typical night in the tent goes a little like this:

-         -  Stop drinking fluids by 18.00 p.m. so as to reduce the chance of needing a nighttime tinkle.
-         -  Cook then eat, teeth (thank God for comas).
-         -  Bed, diary, and then a little French.
-          - Asleep before dusk.

Conversely, a typical night in a Bed and Breakfast appears to be even simpler:

-        -  Buy heaps of snacks and eat them whilst watching either football or Made in Chelsea. Yes, you heard me!

Whilst walking, Jake and I spoke to scores of intrigued passers-by, many of which related to our expedition in one way or another, or were simply interested. On several occasions we even received ‘on foot’ donations. Carol and Roger, who own and run the magnificent Old Farmhouse, close to Biggin Hill, donated £85 to our WaterAid fund. Meanwhile, we are continuing to get wonderfully generous donations from those at home. Gwynneth, George and co. had a race to fill water bottles with coins. The girls reportedly won, but we would like to thank them all.

The beginning of the North Downs Way.




Camping in amongst the bluebells.


Luxury at The Old Farmhouse


View of the Kent countryside and the English Channel from the Wye Crown.


The 'Ocean'dance.



The beginning of the North Downs Way.
 The Bee Orchid bench
The rambler.
Arable farmland.
The M25 in all its glory.
Misty morning.
No words.
Jake, Roger, Carol and I at The Old Farmhouse.
Lunch stop.
Bluebells in bloom.
Good morning lambs.


Our first Grande Randonee sign.
Beware of the Moose!
A beautiful visit from our Grandmother and Dad whilst in Ottigne.

Sunday, 21 April 2013

Colthrop Manor to Farnham - Day six to Eight

Here are a few snaps from the past three days. Jake and I were lucky enough to have a few friend and family visits. From Colthrop Manor we ambled south, through Bramley and Hook, then on to Farnham.


 Jubilation at breakfast; Jake discovered both Nesquik and Golden Nuggets.

 Some familiar faces met us at Bramley.
 Standing tall.


 12 legs, from Hook to Farnham.




A slightly creepy photo of Phil who baked Jake and I the most magnificent cake. I am sure to most that it is obvious what the cake is depicting, but for those who are struggling it is a map of our route. 

Friday, 19 April 2013

Great Bedwyn to Colthrop Manor - Day Five

After eating breakfast with Hendrix, the dog, we were quickly reacquainted with the canal. Angi, who owns a canal boat with her partner, was moored up just outside Great Bedwyn, so we gingerly clambered on for a brief farewell.
 The canal's water is dynamic in colour, transitioning from muddy brown to pastel turquoise and then back again. The grassy tussocks make me think of scores of bushy haired gents bathing their weary shoulders in the drink. As the heads of the bathers rest near to the canal banks, Jake and I imagined their toes slowly bobbing to the surface on the opposite side.

The foxes wedding, as they say in Hindi; simultaneous rain and sun.














Jake by the tall grass.















The commonly regarded opinion that white socks and sandals should never combine was discarded as I began to feel a blister emerging on my heal.
Our second night of luxury accommodation at Mariola's Colthrop Manor Bed and Breakfast.


The Barge Inn to Great Bedwyn - Day Four

We left the Barge Inn with out spotting any aliens (the area is bathed in crop circles). Bullrush and grassy tussocks line the banks, their roots like the coral  of the canal. The morning was sullen and damp. It is certain, as birds flicker here and there, that the other animals and plants are far more partial to a drop of rain than us people.

We passed Pewsey, buying pastries, and arrived at the Cross Keys, in Great Bedwyn, after 25 kms of hiking. After being introduced to Susan, the Bed and Breakfast owner, we were shown to our room. The sight of the bath filled us with delight, but perhaps for a reason difficult to predict...





After dropping our bags I nipped to the toilet. As I walked back into the bedroom, I found Jake sitting one metre from the television, David Attenborough on the boil.










Feet up, maps out.















As we rested our David Attenborough saturated minds, unbeknown to us, Susan (to Jakes left), and her sister Anji (my right), were holding a pub quiz below us. The wonderful sisters and the quiz contestants decided to donated all of the winnings, £202.20 in total, to WaterAid via our donation page. So, thank you to Judy, Dave, Chess, Chris, Rob, Adam, Ed, Henry and everyone else in the Cross Keys that night, your generosity is inspiring.

Sells Green to The Barge Inn - Day Three

The morning after our first night in the Tempest 200.



The initial temptation to hitch a ride with one of the many boats that float the canal was quickly rejected as we overtook one after another. It is certain that you must be a lethargy lover if you are to live the canal life.

The smell of the wood burners      dominates my senses,  evoking nostalgia.



We passed one of Wiltshire's chalk White Horses














A lot of locks.















We arrived at the Barge Inn and pitched our tent in the garden. One pint with our visiting father was enough to induce some seriously heavy eyes. We slept before the sun was down.











One of the most prominent landmarks of the Kennet and Avon Canal, Caen Hill Locks. Jake proves the worth of his last minute red shirt purchase, as he performs our previously choreographed emergency signal dance. Stunning, is it not? Oh, and the locks were cool too.


Bath to Sells Green - Day Two

From Bath we rejoined the Kennet and Avon Canal, ambling along an engineering feat that boasts over 200 years of history. The canal is flat and straight, yet in all its predictability lie hidden treasures that show themselves to those who foot; a swan's beak skims the water's surface, a pike stirs. 

After passing through Bradford on Avon, we arrived at Sells Green campsite with weary legs and shoulders. A gentleman in a striped dressing gown, blue Crocs and a wash bag in hand strolled passed us as we settled down to cook. His wife, presumably  followed in almost identical attire. It was a stark reminder of campsite etiquette.

Our first camp meal - day two


Sunday, 14 April 2013

Bristol in our Wake

37,795 steps, which converts to 30 km (18.5 miles), after leaving Bristol, Jake and I arrived in Bath. Here are   a few highlights from along the way.

A preying heron perched on one of the many boats dotted along the Avon River.


Bristol in our wake.


Lavender coloured flowers coating cottage walls.


We arrived in Bath, grabbed a quick lime and soda and then met up with Milli and Ryan, some friends who kindly offered us a roof for the night.